3.1 General properties of waves
- Syllabus
- 0625–2026–2027
- Topic
- 3.1
- Level
- —
A wave transfers energy from one place to another without transferring matter from the source to the destination.
The moving feature is a disturbance. In a material medium, each small part of the medium is displaced as the disturbance reaches it, then moves back towards its equilibrium position. The pattern advances, but the particles do not travel along with the wave.
A pulse sent along a rope can make a distant end move. A marked point on the rope moves briefly about its original position; it does not travel to the distant end. The pulse has carried energy through the rope without carrying that marked piece of rope with it.
Do not confuse the direction in which the wave travels with the motion of the medium. Energy follows the travelling disturbance; matter only oscillates locally when a material medium is involved.
Wave motion is the travel of a disturbance through a system while different parts of that system vibrate in sequence.
| Demonstration | What is made to vibrate | What travels |
|---|---|---|
| flick one end of a stretched rope | each section moves across the rope's length and returns | a pulse travels along the rope |
| push and pull one end of a stretched spring | coils move to and fro, making compressed and spread-out regions | the disturbance travels along the spring |
| disturb water in a ripple tank | points on the surface move about their undisturbed positions | wavefronts travel across the surface |
Watch one marked point as well as the overall pattern. The point begins moving only when the disturbance reaches it, and the next points then respond. This delayed sequence is evidence that the wave is propagating.
A travelling wave pattern does not mean the rope, spring or water is flowing from source to receiver. The examples differ in vibration direction, but each illustrates local vibration plus a travelling disturbance.
Wave features describe the size, spacing, timing and motion of a repeating disturbance.
| Feature | Precise meaning |
|---|---|
| crest (peak) | highest point of a transverse wave |
| trough | lowest point of a transverse wave |
| amplitude | maximum displacement from the equilibrium position |
| wavelength, λ | shortest distance between two points in the same phase, such as crest to next crest |
| frequency, f | number of complete waves passing a point each second, measured in hertz (Hz) |
| wave speed, v | distance travelled by the wave per unit time, measured in m/s |
| wavefront | a line joining points on a wave that are in the same phase; adjacent crest lines are one wavelength apart |
Measure amplitude from the equilibrium line to a crest or trough, not from crest to trough. Measure wavelength between matching points on consecutive cycles, not between a crest and the nearest trough.
Frequency describes how often cycles pass; speed describes how fast the disturbance moves. They are different quantities even though both affect how wave cycles are spaced.
Wave speed equals the number of complete waves produced each second multiplied by the distance occupied by one complete wave.
v=fλ
| Symbol | Meaning | SI unit |
|---|---|---|
| v | wave speed | m/s |
| f | frequency | Hz |
| λ | wavelength | m |
Use v=fλ, f=v/λ or λ=v/f. Convert kilohertz to hertz and centimetres to metres before substituting.
For sound with f=2.0kHz=2000Hz and v=800m/s: λ=v/f=800/2000=0.40m. The unit check is (m/s)/(1/s)=m.
Use the wavelength in the same medium as the stated speed. Do not substitute 2.0 for 2.0kHz without converting to 2000Hz.
In a transverse wave, the direction of vibration is at right angles to the direction in which the wave propagates.
| Quantity | Direction in a transverse model |
|---|---|
| wave propagation and energy transfer | along the wave's travel direction |
| vibration | perpendicular to the travel direction |
Electromagnetic radiation, water waves and seismic S-waves (secondary waves) can be modelled as transverse. For a rope pulse travelling horizontally, a marked point may vibrate vertically; those two directions are perpendicular.
A transverse wave is classified by the two directions, not by whether its drawn trace has crests and troughs. A graph can look wavy even when it represents a different quantity, so always identify what is vibrating and where the wave travels.
In a longitudinal wave, the direction of vibration is parallel to the direction in which the wave propagates.
| Quantity | Direction in a longitudinal model |
|---|---|
| wave propagation and energy transfer | along the wave's travel direction |
| vibration | backwards and forwards along that same line |
The vibration produces alternating compressions, where particles are closer together, and rarefactions, where particles are farther apart. These regions travel even though individual particles only oscillate about their equilibrium positions.
Sound waves and seismic P-waves (primary waves) can be modelled as longitudinal.
Longitudinal does not mean that particles travel all the way from source to receiver. It means their local vibration is parallel to the propagation direction.
Reflection, refraction and diffraction are different changes to a travelling wave, identified by the boundary or opening it meets.
| Process | Situation | What happens |
|---|---|---|
| reflection | wave reaches a plane surface | the wave returns into the original region in a changed direction |
| refraction | wave enters a region where its speed changes | wavelength changes and the wave changes direction unless it meets the boundary normally |
| diffraction | wave passes through a narrow gap | wavefronts spread into the region beyond the gap |
The incident wave does not become a new kind of wave. These names describe what its propagation does at a surface, speed-changing boundary or gap.
A direction change alone is not enough to name refraction: it must be caused by a change of wave speed. Diffraction is spreading through a gap, not a speed change at a boundary.
A ripple tank contains shallow water. A vibrating straight bar produces regular plane wavefronts; a lamp or stroboscope makes their positions visible so the incident and resulting wavefronts can be compared.
| Behaviour to show | Tank arrangement | Observation |
|---|---|---|
| reflection | place a straight barrier in the water | wavefronts return from the plane surface with unchanged spacing |
| refraction | place a flat transparent sheet under part of the water so that region is shallower; send wavefronts across the boundary at an angle | waves slow in shallow water, their spacing decreases and their direction changes |
| diffraction through a gap | leave a narrow opening between two barriers | wavefronts spread beyond the opening and become curved |
| diffraction at an edge | place one barrier so wavefronts pass its end | wavefronts curve into the region behind the edge |
Keep the wave generator steady while comparing the wavefront pattern before and after each obstacle or depth boundary. Direction of travel is perpendicular to the wavefronts, and wavelength is read from their spacing.
The transparent sheet changes water depth; it is not a barrier that simply reflects the waves. For diffraction, observe spreading behind the gap or edge rather than calling every curved line refraction.
The amount of diffraction through a gap depends on wavelength compared with gap width, not on either size considered alone.
| Wavelength compared with gap width | Pattern beyond the gap |
|---|---|
| wavelength similar to gap width | strong spreading; wavefronts are strongly curved |
| wavelength much smaller than gap width | weak spreading; the central wavefronts remain nearly straight |
For a fixed gap, increasing wavelength increases diffraction. For a fixed wavelength, decreasing gap width increases diffraction. Both changes increase the ratio λ/gap width.
Passing through the gap does not by itself change frequency, speed or wavelength. The spacing of the outgoing wavefronts stays the same as the incident spacing when the medium is unchanged; only their spread changes.
Amplitude does not determine the amount of diffraction. Compare wavelength with gap width before deciding which pattern spreads most.
When a wave passes an edge, it diffracts into the geometrical shadow region; a longer wavelength produces more spreading around the edge.
| Same edge, different wavelength | Diffraction |
|---|---|
| longer wavelength | wavefronts curve farther behind the edge |
| shorter wavelength | less spreading; a sharper shadow region remains |
Low-frequency sound has a longer wavelength than high-frequency sound when both travel at the same speed. It therefore diffracts more around a building or hill, so the low-frequency sound can be heard more clearly out of the direct line of sight.
This is diffraction around an edge, not transmission through the obstacle. Source loudness or wave amplitude can affect how detectable a signal is, but it does not set the wavelength-dependent amount of spreading.